I met my neighbours in the only shade on the entire beach. I needed to find somewhere to set up camp so I shuffled through the burning sand and struck up a conversation. This move led to a prolonged discussion on conservation and a sheltered spot under the juniper tree that I would call home for the next ten days. This surely was heaven. My nest perched at the edge of a cliff and was complete with a mud buddah and a well-worn sarong left by the previous inhabitants.